Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow - Recommended Stay in Dibrugarh, Assam - India
Tea is more than just a morning beverage for the people of Assam. It is a way of life. And when it comes to the town of Dibrugarh, you can see lush green tea gardens as far as the eye can see. This colour of life and abundance was all we saw as we stood on the first floor of Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow – the iconic ‘Chang Ghar’ surrounded by tea gardens in Dibrugarh, Assam. This article is a review of our stay experience at the chang bungalow.
The Chang Bungalows of Assam
We all know how luxuriously and comfortably the Britishers loved to live in India. Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow is a classic example and an ideal representation of their lifestyle. When seen from afar, the bungalow seems to be floating over the tea bushes that surround it. Only when you get near will you find that it is supported on wooden stilts. Such bungalows are called the ‘Chang Bungalows or Chang Ghars,’ hence the name – Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow.
Review of Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow
Location of Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow
Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow is located on the outskirts of Dibrugarh town in Upper Assam, India. In 1970, it was bought from the British Indian Tea Company by the Jalans – the oldest tea-growing families in Assam. Through their company named Purvi Discovery, they converted the chang bungalow into a 6-room heritage guesthouse in 2001.
3 rooms are on the ground floor and 3 on the floor above, each named after a tributary of the Brahmaputra River. Until the late 1900s, the entire house stood on wooden stilts. This was done both to keep the house cool by allowing fresh air to blow from beneath and to keep animals and water out. But while the chang ghar was converted into a heritage guesthouse, 3 rooms were built on the ground floor. So, it is no longer all stilts, though we could still see plenty of stilts supporting the first floor.
The entire chang ghar, as well as the décor and furniture, is made up of wood. One of the most interesting features is that even the nails used in the flooring are made of wood, not iron. These wooden nails are said to be handcrafted by traditional Chinese artisans.
Reaching Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow
As we approached the Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow, we passed through the impeccably manicured garden home to a more than 150-year-old giant rain tree. Driving on the gravelled road of the estate, we arrived at the grand entrance/ parking area, where our hosts warmly received us. Some quick check-in formalities, and after an appropriate serving of an iced tea, we were escorted to our room on the first floor of the chang ghar.
Our room at Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow
The rooms on the first floor of Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow are as old as the house and still ooze a sense of the by-gone era. Our bedroom was enormous, large enough to sleep an army. Cute box windows with floral curtains opened to the outdoor balcony-type seating area that eventually overlooked the lawn.
Equipped with all modern amenities, our bedroom at Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow had a king-sized bed with warm and comfortable linen, bed-side tables and lamps, a unique wooden towel hanger, a coat hanger, a dresser, a study table, a full-sized mirror, a shoe-rack, a luggage rack, and an easy chair. The bedroom led to a small dressing room, which in turn led to a bathroom. Fitted with a bathtub, a geyser, and a cosy shower, the bathroom was as large as the bedroom.
The floor-to-ceiling box windows that opened to the huge balcony/ sitting area outside the room were adorned with outdoor furniture to sit, relax, and enjoy the winter sun. The room was also equipped with a super-useful heater as we visited during the winter season. As a result, we felt extremely safe and snug in our modern yet historic British abode.
Other rooms / areas at the Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow
Besides the 6 rooms, Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow also has a lounge area, an indoor dining room, an outdoor breakfast area, and a snuggly library. Each of these areas is adorned with British-time maps on the walls, unique paintings, old photographs of the house, and quirky yet notable sit-outs. The chang ghar had all the elements that put you at ease and transports you to a period over a century ago.
All these were surrounded by acres and acres of tea gardens where the staff used to work in an orderly manner, either pruning the tea plants or picking tea leaves. The active and loud humdrum in the far-away tea gardens never affected the quiet, splendid isolation of the chang ghar.
Our experience at the Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow
We spent most of our time lazing on the first-floor front side verandah of the chang bungalow, watching the labourers work in the tea fields. We even requested our breakfast to be laid there. Our morning started with a ceremonial tea made with utmost precision by the kitchen staff. Breakfast at Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow is entirely an English affair but with an Indian touch. There’s honey, fresh fruits, juices, cereals, toasts, and milk.
Dinners at the chang ghar are communal, where all guests sit together on the large wooden table and chatter. The meals were elaborate, starting with soup, followed by starters, main course, sweets, and ending with a hot cuppa tea (of course!). We requested a traditional Assamese dinner one night and were served with mouth-watering, homely, authentic varieties that we still can’t get over.
We also spent time in the sprawling garden right in front of Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow. The tall rainforest tree scattered the sunlight that filtered through it and provided excellent shade and warmth. The house looked even more beautiful from the surrounding gardens.
Tea Plantations surrounding Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow
We were allowed to move freely through the tea garden bordering the chang ghar. The tea leaves are plucked by the labourers living in the nearby village. These are then sorted, rolled, fired, and sent to the factory, where the tea is packed and labelled. The Jalan tea estate produces some of the best Assam Orthodox teas, made of shiny golden tips and appreciated by the tea-connoisseurs. This is then exported worldwide.
We interacted with locals and learnt so much about tea while staying at Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow. The tea cultivated in the tea estate around Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow is organically grown and is free of pesticides and other chemicals. We loved walking in the tea gardens and understanding the entire process of tea making.
Getting around Dibrugarh
Purvi Discovery is a tourism company run by the Jalans that conducts trips to places to visit in and around Dibrugarh. In Dibrugarh, you should see the tea estates, DTP Dyke, Bogibeel bridge, Jokai Botanical Garden, Jagannath temple, and Jalan Mandir. You can also opt to visit the places near Dibrugarh like Namphake monastery, Margherita coal museum, Dibru Saikhowa national park, and Ahom ruins in Sivasagar. Please find detailed information about all these places in our article here.
Other activities that Purvi Discovery offers include heritage tea tours, tribal tours, golfing holidays, birdwatching, etc. You can find their brochures in the library at Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow and pre-book tours of your interest.
Mancotta Heritage Chang Bungalow is a retreat and not a traditional hotel. You can book the entire chang ghar or a room from any of the travel portals mentioned below or by directly contacting Purvi Discovery.
Stay here for an unforgettable holiday amidst the comfort of a colonial lifestyle. It offers a perfect getaway from busy lives and hectic schedules.
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